Then apply the material so that it touches the backer and the surface edge of each log. It’s kind of like icing a cake: Hold the gun (or chinking bag if you’re not using a gun) firmly against the backer rod. Though a pro knows exactly what to do, it’s helpful if you, too, understand the process. You WILL get some on you and chinking is hard to wash out.) Proper Technique. (If this is a DIY project, wear old clothes and shoes. Then a bent trowel about the width of the chinking joint and a spray bottle filled with tap water are used to smooth the material without leaving marks. A bulk loading gun allows an even bead to be applied to the surface. The rod should fit snugly against the logs, about 1/4 to 3/8 inch behind the surface for square logs and far enough out to create a 1/4-inch bead on round logs (the actual depth depends on the diameter of the log itself). Back it Up.Ī backer rod is a foam strip, which rests between the gaps in the log courses so that the chinking has a surface to adhere to. Power washing may be necessary for log homes that have been standing for a number of years. Logs should be clean, dry and free of debris. (You may even try to do it yourself!) Shore Up the Surface. Here are six keys to chinking application that will last. Today’s chinking is comprised of flexible, elastic and long-lasting synthetic material, effectively sealing the space between log courses, even as the home settles over time - as long as it’s properly applied. In days of yore, chinking was made from a rigid concoction of mortar, mud, hay and stone - a mixture that notoriously crumbled and separated from the logs as it aged. The term is “chinking,” and for some log homes, chinking plays a vital role in its weathertightness while for others, it’s purely decorative. Log homes have a laid-back charm that’s undeniable, and one component that’s often singled out as a defining feature is the white bands of material between log courses, despite the fact that many people don’t know what it’s called.
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